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 L.A. may be famous for its
melanoma-courting beach fanatics, but there's
far more to do along the coast than catch some
rays. In the course of a day, it's more than
possible to feast your eyes on world-class art,
indulge the palette, sample some L.A.
counterculture and still have time to bask in
the glow of a Pacific sunset.
Head out to the coast along
stunning Sunset Drive, a meandering stretch of
road that cuts through some of L.A.'s most
affluent neighborhoods, including Brentwood
(don't even think about it) and Pacific
Palisades. When you hit Pacific Coast Highway
(locals call it PCH), go north to Topanga Canyon
Road, which will take you deep into one of
L.A.'s most eccentric subcultures.
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A mere fifteen minutes from
the upscale eateries and shops of Santa Monica,
Topanga Canyon is a refuge for artists, nature
lovers, nudists, New Age gurus and other
outside-the-mainstream types who still want (or
need) to be close to the action. Perched on a
hill above the main road is Inn of the Seventh
Ray (128 Old Topanga Canyon Road), a local
institution famous for its spiritual pedigree
and idyllic outdoor patio as well as its menu.
The restaurant caters mostly to health-food
devotees, but don't let that frighten you:
indulgence is part of the credo here (try the
fondue, if you dare), and you will leave with
both a full stomach and serene heart.
Less than a mile up the main
road is the turnoff for Topanga Canyon State
Park. Lazy souls can take a short walk and find
a shady oak for an afternoon siesta; the more
ambitious can choose from several hiking trails,
some of which eventually lead to a dramatic view
of the coastline.
By now you're probably
thirsting for some ocean air. Drive back to PCH
and, if it's early enough, head north. There are
plenty of nice beaches all along the highway,
but the coast turns more ruggedly beautiful once
you get past the overdeveloped eyesore of
central Malibu. At Leo Carillo State Beach, you
can play explorer in some cool seashore caves,
then climb up on the jagged rocks and lose
yourself in the rhythm of the crashing waves.
Once you've had your fill of
nature, head back on PCH and make a beeline for
Santa Monica's Third Street Promenade. While
this outdoor pedestrian mall is typically
overrun by yuppies and blissed-out couples, it
can be fun in small doses, especially if you
need a zap of civilization after a day in the
wilds. Be sure to check out Midnight Special
(1318 Third Street Promenade), one of the area's
best independent bookstores, as well as
Hennessey & Ingalls (1254 Third Street
Promenade), which offers an amazing selection of
books on art and architecture.
By this time, the sun should
be sinking low, so walk down to the Santa Monica
Pier and watch the sky get magical. Lest you
start feeling too laid back, drive over to the
Novel Cafe (212 Pier Ave. just off Main Street),
where you can revive yourself with some strong
joe while leafing through Tolstoy or
eavesdropping on your bohemian co-patrons.
Now you're primed for
anything the avant-garde L.A. art scene can
throw at you, so take your pick between Beyond
Baroque (681 Venice Blvd.) and Highways (1651
18th St.). The former, once an abandoned jail,
is a literary oasis where poets and other
wordsmiths reinvent language; the latter riles
up Jesse Helms and his neanderthal pals with
cutting-edge theater, dance and performance art
that challenges sexual and cultural stereotypes.
Your stomach should be
rumbling, and you could do far worse than Border
Grill (1445 Fourth St.), which serves up
mouth-watering Southwestern fare that'll make
you wonder why you ever eat anything else. Right
across the street, dance it off at Harvelle's
(1432 Fourth St.), a classic blues club that's
been around longer than most of its customers
(which is saying something in L.A.). When the
show's over, catch a glimpse of the Pacific by
starlight and breathe in the midnight ocean air.
You'll go to sleep feeling more relaxed than a
Zen master.
Thanks to
losangeles.com for this information |
