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 They're as predictable as the watery chowder
served in the sourdough bread bowls. L.A. naysayers like to
blather on about how the city has no history, no neighborhoods,
no character, no culture. These are the folks who come to town
and never leave West L.A. or venture off the freeway. But if one
knows where to look, the richness of the city is unending.
A good place to start is Downtown, by day an
urban core pulsating with the wildly divergent energies of the
business and the (largely) immigrant merchant trade worlds. Here
towering bastions of corporate might like the First Interstate
Building (tallest on the West Coast) coexist in relative harmony
with grittier urban treasures such as the Grand Central Public
Market (317 S. Broadway), a giant indoor food market thick with
the smell and feel of far-off places. Those who like a hearty
breakfast will want to start the day with a visit to the Pantry
(877 S. Figueroa St.), a justly famous spot where the food and
decor are both old-school. This meat-eater's dream of a
restaurant has been around forever, serving up huge portions at
measly prices 'round the clock.
For some mind food, the Central Library (630
W. Fifth St.), a beautifully restored building that draws lovers
of books and classic architecture alike, is a must. More
cultural immersion can be had at the Museum of Contemporary Art
(250 S. Grand Ave. at California Plaza), an odd but winning
modern structure considered to be one of the better art
institutions in the country. From there, it's a short walk to
the Music Center (135 N. Grand Ave.), L.A.'s marquee venue for
classical music and theater (check out the kids dodging water
bullets in the great fountain sculpture). Angel's Flight (Fourth
and Hill), the newly rebuilt Bunker Hill funicular which served
as a civic touchstone for generations of Angelenos, offers a
slow, nostalgic ride bridging L.A.'s past and present.
On the other side of the 101 Freeway, one
finds the culinary delights of Chinatown. Another kind of
lunch-time adventure can be had on Olvera Street, the historic
cobblestone lane that once upon a time was Los Angeles.
Here, half a dozen Mexican restaurants are scattered amidst
shops loaded with sombreros and Virgin de Guadalupe sculptures.
Nearby is Union Station, L.A.'s grand old train depot and one of
the city's most popular film locations.
Those looking for a respite from the urban
jungle should take a drive through nearby Elysian Park, a lovely
expanse of trees andspace (and home to Dodger Stadium).
Just to the west are the hills of Echo Park, one of L.A.'s
oldest and most charming neighborhoods. On a clear day, it's
possible to see the entire basin stretched out ahead, with the
Pacific in the distance. Descending onto Glendale Boulevard and
heading south, you'll hit Echo Park Lake, where families picnic
and lovers paddleboat by day (once dusk falls, though, the gangs
take over). For a stunning view of the downtown skyline, double
back a few blocks to Angelino Heights, a turn-of-the-century
neighborhood boasting some magnificently restored Victorian
homes (look for Carroll Avenue).
From here, it's a ten-minute ride to the
heart of Los Feliz, a thriving community of writers and artists.
Wanderers should check out Shakespeare Bridge, an impossibly
romantic little embellishment at the end of Franklin Avenue.
Vermont Street houses Palermo (1858 N. Vermont Ave.), perhaps
the sweetest Italian restaurant in town. Diners can enjoy a
glass of wine on the house while waiting to be seated by owner
Tony (first names only) and then let the hefty portions and
irresistibly homey ambience take over. For those more in the
mood to imbibe, the Dresden Room (1760 N. Vermont Ave.),
featuring cult faves Marty and Elayne, won't disappoint. Better
yet is the Brown Derby (4500 Los Feliz Blvd.), a high-style
bar/club/dance room/pool hall that will have you thinking it's
1930. If the hunger pangs return, head over to a gritty strip of
Hollywood Boulevard west of Normandie known as Thai Alley, where
a spate of eateries serve hot, spicy noodles late into the a.m.
hours. Those looking for some gourmet eggs and pancakes will
want to zip on down to the seductively swank Pacific Dining Car
(1310 W. Sixth St.), one of L.A.'s oldest and best restaurants,
for a breakfast that won't soon be digested, or forgotten.
Thanks to
losangeles.com for this information |
