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Los Angeles - South and West LA
 Locate
the Santa Monica Freeway on a map of Los Angeles, and you'll see
that much of the city falls below this major east-west artery.
But for most tourists -- indeed, for many locals -- L.A. south
of the 10 might as well not exist. Yet exist it does, harboring
some cultural treasures that should not be missed.
Before venturing south, start the day with a
visit to the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (5905 Wilshire
Blvd.), a complex offering a bevy of excellent permanent
exhibitions (including a wonderful collection of ancient Asian
ceramics) and such amenities as the lovely Japanese Pavilion.
Nearby is the Petersen Automotive Museum (6060 Wilshire Blvd.),
a must-see trip through 20th Century car culture.
Another must-see is the Carole & Barry Kaye
Museum of Miniature Art, also on Museum Row. Their motto is "The
world in the palm of your hand," and they're not kidding. See
everything from a replica of the O.J. Simpson trial, complete
with a mini Marcia Clark, to French palaces furnished with Van
Gogh paintings and rice-size chandeliers. Some scenes look so
real, you'll feel guilty of voyeurism.
To "cross that invisible line," take Fairfax
down to the 10 and head east to the 110 south. Get off at the
Coliseum exit for the Museum of Science and Industry (700 State
Dr.), where you can relive those childhood moments of innocent
wonder. Don't miss the ultimate cinematic thrill ride at the
museum's IMAX theater, featuring mind-blowing nature
documentaries like "The Living Sea" on a 70-foot-wide screen.
Also within walking distance are the Natural History Museum (900
Exposition Blvd.), famous for the Ralph M. Parsons Insect Zoo,
and the Afro-American Museum (600 State Dr.), which delves into
black life in the Americas.
Get back on the 100 and head south to the
Watts Towers (1765 E. 107th St.), L.A.'s internationally
renowned symbol of urban ingenuity. Built between 1921 and 1954
by Italian immigrant Simon Rodia from metal, plaster, glass and
seashells, the towers rise to over 100 feet, gracing the
surrounding community with their unconventional beauty.
Incredibly, urban renewers tried to tear down this irreplaceable
landmark in the late '50s to clear space for a bowling alley,
but sanity prevailed.
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For some down-home food, go west on the 105
Freeway and take the Crenshaw exit north to Slauson, where
you'll come upon Woody's Bar-B-Que (3446 W. Slauson Ave.). A
no-frills joint that goes way back, Woody's serves up the best
barbecue in town, not to mention flavored sodas you'll rarely
find north of the Mason-Dixon Line. Further up Crenshaw just off
43rd Street is the Leimert Park area, which in the last few
years has birthed a vibrant African-American cultural revival
whose impact has been felt throughout the city. At the center of
this creative flowering is 5th Street Dick's (3335 W. 43rd Pl.),
a charmingly unpretentious coffeehouse/jazz club that draws a
multicultural crowd from all over L.A. Live music and poetry
readings go late into the night, as do the fierce chess matches
at the tables lining the sidewalk. Around the corner is Babe's
and Ricky's Inn (4339 Leimert Blvd.), a legendary blues joint
formerly located on Central Avenue. The new version is quite
simply one of the best clubs in the city, a stylishly subdued
room with enough ambience and soul to keep you coming back again
and again. One block west, The World Stage (4344 Degnan Blvd.)
serves as a breeding ground for jazz musicians and poets alike,
offering workshops and performances for the serious artist and
listener.
Head northwest to Culver City for another
venue bursting with creative energy, the marvelously
iconoclastic Jazz Bakery (3233 Helms Ave). Conceived by singer
Ruth Price, this nonprofit performance space and gallery is
housed in the historic Helms Bakery building. Along with
Catalina Bar & Grill, the innovatively designed Bakery offers
the best live jazz in Los Angeles, augmented by a rotating
exhibit of jazz portraits (the curator is world-famous
photographer William Claxton).
After dinner, drive west along Washington
Boulevard through Culver City, whose broad, quiet streets, old
buildings and rambling movie studios cast a slightly eerie but
entrancing spell. Continue on to West L.A.'s venerable Cafe
Danssa (11533 Pico Blvd.), a folk-dance club which heats up
about a thousand degrees every Friday and Saturday night with a
Carnival-like frenzy of Brazilian music. You'll swear you're in
Rio, and you'll samba until your partner drags you off for some
shut-eye.
Thanks to
losangeles.com for this information |
